Monday, April 28th.
Today, we started our day with a leisurely visit to Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa, the former summer residence of the last Emir of Bukhara. This picturesque oasis, nestled amidst lush gardens and tranquil ponds, offers a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of the city's royal family. The history of Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa dates back to the mid-19th century, during the reign of Emir Nasrullakhan. It was under his rule that the first structures in this idyllic location were established. However, it was his successor, Muzaffarkhan, who truly transformed Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa into a magnificent summer palace. Driven by his love for his wife Sitora-bonu, Muzaffarkhan spared no expense in creating a sumptuous retreat. The most skilled craftsmen from Bukhara were sent to Russia to learn the finest techniques of country residence construction. Upon their return, they embarked on a grand project to build a series of opulent rooms, including a breathtaking throne room. The resulting palace is a harmonious blend of European and Asian architectural styles, reflecting the eclectic tastes of its royal occupants. I bought a cheap little bracelet there. Then we returned to our hotel in Bukhara where we had some free time. John and I went for a wander and found a coffee shop and enjoyed an Americana, before going back again and checking out. Our group boarded the bus for the 30 minute ride to the train station. Our luggage is going on a 6 hour bus ride while we enjoy a two hour bullet train ride to Samarkand. Riding the train is a great way to avoid the 38 degree temperatures. We rode past flat desolate lands interspersed with irrigated fields, some animal husbandry and some small nondescript towns. We passed a large artificial lake or reserve that collects water and snow runoff from the mountains and this is where the water comes from to irrigate all this desert area. When we got to Samarkand we were met by our tour bus and driven to our local dinner restaurant. Alex had booked it as a ‘surprise’. It turned out that we were sitting at a very long table where we ate our salads and had a drink while they put some metal holders on the table. Then there was a lot of loud singing and clapping from waiters and a group of children and two men brought in a very long pole with bbq’d ground beef wrapped on it. They placed it on the supports on our table and while they were cutting it lengthwise to let us get it off the pole we were encouraged to stand up and dance. Lots of fun and noise. The meat was like a hamburger without the bun or toppings. After we ate we were transferred to our hotel for a nicely-placed 3-night stay. We are staying very close to the Registon Square, which is world famous and the one thing above all that I wanted to see in this area. Alex told us that there would be a light show there at 8 and told us how to get there. For some reason only John, Pauline and I decided to go. What an incredible place. Absolutely gorgeous with three Madrasas on three sides of a large square. They were lit up with beautiful complimentary lights. We wandered around taking photos, and were totally in awe. Then we noticed lots of people standing and sitting on the fourth side of the square, so we joined them and then began the light show. It didn’t really enhance the setting and made it a bit too Disney-like, and maybe sacrilegious too to my mind. Anyway we were very glad we went it was well worth it. Tomorrow we go during the daylight and have a history lesson. Back to the hotel to upload pictures and sleep. John and I have a room with three single beds, so we have a luggage buffer between us like in our tent in Africa 15 years ago!
